Mt. Stuart West Ridge Information

The Approach and Climb:

From Ingalls Lake hike the ridge towards Stuart Pass (stay mainly on ridge). When possible cut right across the talus slope and head towards the 2nd prominent gully.

This is the start of the climb, but mainly 3rd and 4th class scrambling will take you all the way to Long John Tower, which is gained by going to the top of the gully and then moving right and down a little into another gully.

The easiest way up to the notch behind Long John Tower is on the right side (see pic.). Once to the notch head almost straight up and then start veering right on ledges. This is mainly 3rd and 4th class and sometimes exposed. Go almost up to the West Horn and traverse around it on a large ledge.

From here, keep moving right until you reach the West Ridge Notch, which is the second prominent notch. Climb up to its right and onto another large ledge that will take you around to the North Side (and the most fun climbing of the route). Climb up and left on the North side on easy fifth class rock and then pull back onto the ridge. From here, climb up to the summit. There are many options (some of which are up to 5.6).

The route can be done with very little technical climbing, but route finding can be confusing at times (although not as bad as many say). The best part of the route comes once you reach the North side and all the way to the top.

The Descent:

The Cascadian Couloir is the easiest, but lacks any aesthetic qualities. Head EAST off of the summit staying somewhat close to the ridge until it's possible to descend down across talus. Follow carins, MAKING SURE NOT TO DESCEND TO LOW. Head up and over the ridge in front of you as soon as you can via a small 3rd class scamble. Then follow talus to a very loose scree slope and go down to the Couloir. Head toward the trees, staying RIGHT in the larger talus. It is possible to descned either the left side or right side once you reach the trees. The right is best and quicker. The left side (mostly loose dirt and scree has some sections that get weird). Once you get to the bottom take the Ingalls Creek trail back to Ingalls Lake. All in all the descent SUCKS. It was once said "Descent is Hell," or was it war?