Mt. Stuart West Ridge Information

The Approach and Climb:

From Ingalls Lake hike the ridge towards Stuart Pass (stay mainly on ridge). When possible cut right across the talus slope and head towards the 2nd prominent gully.

This is the start of the climb, but mainly 3rd and 4th class scrambling will take you all the way to Long John Tower, which is gained by going to the top of the gully and then moving right and down a little into another gully.

The easiest way up to the notch behind Long John Tower is on the right side (see pic.). Once to the notch head almost straight up and then start veering right on ledges. This is mainly 3rd and 4th class and sometimes exposed. Go almost up to the West Horn and traverse around it on a large ledge.

From here, keep moving right until you reach the West Ridge Notch, which is the second prominent notch. Climb up to its right and onto another large ledge that will take you around to the North Side (and the most fun climbing of the route). Climb up and left on the North side on easy fifth class rock and then pull back onto the ridge. From here, climb up to the summit. There are many options (some of which are up to 5.6).

The route can be done with very little technical climbing, but route finding can be confusing at times (although not as bad as many say). The best part of the route comes once you reach the North side and all the way to the top.

The Descent:

The Cascadian Couloir is the easiest, but lacks any aesthetic qualities. Head EAST off of the summit staying somewhat close to the ridge until it's possible to descend down across talus. Follow carins, MAKING SURE NOT TO DESCEND TO LOW. Head up and over the ridge in front of you as soon as you can via a small 3rd class scamble. Then follow talus to a very loose scree slope and go down to the Couloir. Head toward the trees, staying RIGHT in the larger talus. It is possible to descned either the left side or right side once you reach the trees. The right is best and quicker. The left side (mostly loose dirt and scree has some sections that get weird). Once you get to the bottom take the Ingalls Creek trail back to Ingalls Lake. All in all the descent SUCKS. It was once said "Descent is Hell," or was it war?

Mt. Slesse information

Let's start with the descent:

If you face WEST from the summit a small bowl is on your left. Go down into it via a small scamble and then move up and all the way across it to the far side. Here you will find a notch that takes you over to the West side. From the notch descend a scree gully until you can cut left (skier's left) and follow carins that will eventually, about 300 feet, take you to the first rap station. Rappel with a 70m rope here to reach the bottom and another scree slope (lot's of flakes so be carefull your rope doesnt get stuck). From here descend NORTH through the gully that has two giant gendarmes on the LEFT. There is no need to rap anywhere here. Descend until it is possible to cut right and move up some ledges that are marked with carins (some easy 3rd class). These ledges will take you around right and to a small downclimb (4th class). Once down follow a small trail to another rap station around right and up high...here on rappel can be made with a 70m rope or two raps if no 70m rope. Once down follow the trail around right to another rappel sation which is right at a long section that can be downclimbed and ontop of a triangular rock platform. With a 70m rope you can make two rappels down to the bottom (your last two raps). These last rappels allow you to bypass the downclimb and a lot of loose scrambling. Once down follow carins across scree to obvious trail that takes you along the ridge. Then, after following the ridge for a while and crossing two talus fields, a HELLISH descent roughly straight down for about 6,000 feet will take you to the old road bed (looks more like a wide trail). At times this is marked with flags and tape. Just before the old road bed is a memorial plaque and go RIGHT onto the road bed. Follow for about 4-5 km until you get to a large gravel lot (you will cross a cool old wooden bridge along the way). From the gravel lot head NORTH for about 7-8km. Slesse Creek is always a ways below you and only a few streams can be found for h20.

How about the approach:

From Chilliwack Lake Road turn right at a riverside campground (also on your right) and follow Nesakwatch Creek Road for about 6.4km. There is a wooden (actually a craved log) that reads SLESSE MT. TRAIL. Park here and begin your hike. In about an hour you will reach the commemorative plaque and another hour will get you to the Propellar Carin. (All of this is on a well marked trail). From the Propellar Carin head NORTH across slabs to the obvious notch in the ridge. Go up and over this (climbing down the otherside is slick and losse and care should be taken). After this head up the bypass glacier or slabs if the glacier has fallen until you reach the ledge system. From the ledge head upwards ALWAYS staying on the ledge until around the corner. DONT HEAD UP EARLY. Once around corner head towards a tree that hides the trail which will take you up onto safer, easier ground. The ledge is easy but exposed at times. No real reason to rope up though.